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When assembling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might foresee renowned award-winning names. Yet, situated prominently among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu located in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The accolade has made the owners totally astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” says a owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest restaurant earning such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the food, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary achievement.